ELECTRIC BLUE

You may remember from a previous post that, on our way to Cromwell, we had stopped at a viewpoint overlooking Clyde Dam and hydroelectric power station for our lunch.  Whilst there, we had noted from the information graphic that one of the two pylon routes was from Clyde to Christchurch and the other was to Twizel.  It had intrigued us why there was such a significant link to the remote alpine township in the McKenzie District that was our next destination.

Our route to Twizel took us across the highest state highway in New Zealand reaching 971 metres above sea level at Lindis Pass.  Throughout our journey, the pylons followed us like the huge Fighting Machines from War of the Worlds, although they took the direct route up and over any mountains in their path.  

We understand that this stretch of road is regularly cast star in promotional films by car manufacturers.  As we had come to expect, there is a viewpoint at the summit and we scrambled up the last 100 metres to reach the carefully positioned platform providing the best view down the pass.  It is clear why it is a popular film location but what was particularly striking was the golden brown colour of the Tussock grass that carpets the mountains and hills right to their summits.

Lindis Pass

As we reached the southern approach to Twizel, there was a genuine “Wow” out loud moment as we glimpsed our first view of Lake Ruataniwha (Roo-ah-tany-fa).  The intense turquoise colour was unlike any water we have ever seen before.

We found Twizel located just off the State Highway and quite different in character and layout to the typical townships we had experienced so far.  There was a distinct centre with a pedestrian only market place and it definitely had an alpine feel about it.  Twizel positions itself as the gateway to The Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park with Aoraki/Mt Cook village itself only 50km from Twizel by road.  Just north of Twizel there is a viewpoint at Lake Pukaki with the iconic Aoraki/Mt Cook and Mt Tasman as the backdrop.

Mt Cook from Lake Pukaki

Later we learnt from our hosts Brenda and Willie that the township has an unusual history.  It was built to accommodate the workers constructing the complex hydroelectric scheme in this remote area.  Dams were built creating lakes from the rivers leading down from the Alps and these lakes were interconnected with canals.  On completion, the town was to have been demolished and removed from the map but a campaign by its residents saved the town.

Pukaki Canal

The hydro scheme is on an awe inspiring scale; the dam at Lake Tekapo some 50km from Twizel is linked by a canal to Lake Pukaki close to Twizel.  There are further canals and natural river beds that link to Lake Ohau, Lake Ruataniwha, and Lake Benmore.  In effect it is a giant staircase with hydroelectric stations at each of the steps.  With such enormous generating capacity, Twizel is a key hub on the national electricity grid which explains why the pylons have followed us here from Clyde.

Lake Tekapo

Church of the Good Shepherd on the shores of Lake Tekapo

It turns out that Willie is an engineer at the power stations.  When working on the external machinery, they are often asked why the water in each lake is a different colour.  He always explains that it is because the colour changes as the electricity is extracted from the water!