THE HELL HOLE OF THE PACIFIC

A relatively short hop of just 70km north from Whangarei to reach our next stopover at Russell.

Even so, we found a couple of distractions on route.  A short detour into Kawakawa enabled us to view toilets designed by the Austrian born architect Hundertwasser of international renown and to see the historic Bay of Islands Railway.

Hundertwasser lived near Kawakawa for 27 years which explains why this anomaly of architecture exists here.  Whilst they are certainly interesting, and also the tiled bench across the road, we were a little underwhelmed.  In fact we initially drove past and missed them.

Hundertwasser's Toilets & Tiled Couch

The railway was definitely worth a look.  The general disrepair suggested a lack of cash but for us this only added to the appeal.  Unfortunately only a diesel service was running as we passed through.

Kawakawa Station

Next stop was the vehicle ferry at Opua.  Whilst there is a scenic route that avoids the ferry, it adds at least an hour to the journey.  We were keen to get to Russell to find out if its reputation lives up to its billing.

Opua to Okiato Ferry

Well, it didn’t disappoint.  A real beauty; a thoroughly charming and unspoilt town with a backdrop of both magnificent scenery and the azure waters of The Bay.

Russell

The short but challenging accent to Flagstaff Lookout is worth it for the panoramic views.  The return loop through the scenic reserve was full of the sounds of insects and the melodious Tuis calling across the valley to each other.

View from Flagstaff Lookout

View of Russell from Kororareka Point Scenic Reserve

Tui

On Chef’s day off, we enjoyed first class beer battered fish and chips at The Wharf on The Strand.  As we contentedly made the short walk back to our wonderful site, we were joined by a local fisherman who was heading home from the pub with his dog.  He chatted with us about his life in Russell.  Perhaps he had read our thoughts or just seen our broad smiles; either way, he confirmed that Russell’s old reputation as the hell hole of the Pacific with drunken sailors and rowdy whalers is history!

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